Gregans Castle

The seamless management of the succession of talent in the kitchen at Gregans Castle – from Mickael Viljanen through David Hurley and on to the latest youthful head chef, Robbie McCauley – has been one of the wonders of the west over the last decade, and has meant that the restaurant remains a must-visit in County Clare. The three chefs have passed the baton in the most professional manner, so there has never even been a glitch here in the delivery of sophisticated and elegant modern Irish food. Mr McCauley was sous chef to David Hurley, and his work displays the same fluency with elevated textures – foie gras terrine with white raisin gel; steamed halibut with prawn bisque and shore vegetables; wild mallard with verjus. The food in the Corkscrew Bar, by the way, is equally dazzling.