The question everyone asks about Gregans is just how Simon and Freddie Haden manage to implement significant changes in their kitchen personnal, and yet the stellar quality of cooking at this most singular country house never, ever falters. The new head chef, Robert McCauley, has slipped into the culinary Crocs of his predessor, David Hurley, as surely and smoothly as Mr Hurley slipped in to the Crocs of his predecessor, Mickael Viljanen. It’s an amazing achievement at this level of cooking, so jump in the car to enjoy Mr McCauley’s proud offerings: steamed black sole with shore vegetables and seaweed; roasted scallops with hazelnuts; Kilshanny lamb with Madeira; sheep’s yogurt parfait with passionfruit. Beautiful cooking, in one of Europe’s most exquisite houses.
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