Editor Eamon Barrett reckons that Mickael Viljanen, of The Greenhouse, serves the best cooking in the country. Many others agree, and for a very good reason: whilst Greenhouse food is technically flawless –“punctilious technique” said The Guardian – its real USP is that it is genuinely exciting. Viljanen could simply wheel out the luxury bon bons. Instead he wheels out the latest culinary ideas and intoxications that he is obsessed with, so there is smoked eel with the foie gras, there is jalapeno pepper with scallop ceviche, there is kombu with the turbot and Timut pepper with the hare, and the frozen marshmallow will blow your mind. Viljanen paints with his ingredients, so colours and aspects are all magnified to a peak of intensity, and every single plate is an artistic triumph. The Greenhouse is at its zenith right now, powered by a mighty team.
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