Even though he hails from a Scandinavian tradition, it’s not fanciful to say that Mickael Viljanen’s food in The Greenhouse enjoys a similar sense of structure and ritual that you might find in a Japanese kaiseki dinner. He weaves threads of flavour and traces of texture through his creations and, as dinner proceeds, one becomes conscious of the ways in which his food links one taste narrative to another in an oftentimes astonishing culinary quilt. The food is rich and virtuosic – veal en crepinette; turbot braised in Chambertin; foie gras royale with smoked eel – but Viljanen balances the dishes brilliantly, and it’s the sense of discipline, rather than indulgence, that impresses. You can’t eat better anywhere else in the city.
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