Head chef Bryan McCarthy and his team continue to up the ante in Greene’s, and with significant developments – including the new Mary Elmes bridge across the River Lee – creating a new working and population centre in the zone, many more food lovers are going to discover the cooking of this singular talent. McCarthy’s food is pretty on the plate, but it is characterised by a gutsiness that undercuts its suavery. He likes to put chicken hearts with dumplings of seafood; he pairs squid ink with Goatsbridge trout; and his use of sea vegetables and dashi stocks roots his food in the elements, making for satisfying eating. The next door Cask is perfect for pre-dinner cocktails, and there is a lot of action around MacCurtain Street these days.
More from the wonderful County Cork
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