Head chef Bryan McCarthy’s menus in the stylish Greenes Restaurant, just north of the River Lee on MacCurtain Street, are a love poem to the Cork ingredients whose sourcing and cooking has always characterised this talented chef – Ardsallagh cheeses; Dexter beef, Busby’s strawberries; McCarthy’s spiced beef; Ballyhoura mushrooms; Skeaghanore duck; Macroom lamb. And whilst McCarthy possesses the full flotilla of modern culinary techniques, his foremost ambition is to showcase his foods, and not just show off his knife skills. The result is subtle, finessed, grown-up cooking: Ardsallgah goat’s cheese with textures of beetroot; halibut and prawn dumplings; hake and scallop with sea spinach. The room is calm and bright, the waterfall is always charming, and make sure to have a cocktail in Cask, just across the alley, before dinner.
More from the wonderful County Cork
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