Aishling Moore navigates her own seafood routes in Goldie. She puts neglected fish such as ling and pollock on her menu. She puts gherkin ketchup with roasted beets. Her brandade is so agrestic it’s like something exported to Cork on the Iberian trade routes back in the 1700’s. She serves a dish of crunchy fish spines, with her own togarashi, as one of the Goldie snacks. Give her a culinary inch, and Aishling will push the envelope a nautical mile. Her cooking is youthfully fearless: she is not afraid to experiment and innovate, and the result is some of the best food in Cork city. Her whole fish approach allows for real drama – mussels with creamed watercress; plaice with chicken butter sauce – but make sure to get there early, as the restaurant operates on a walk-in basis.
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