When he isn’t tending to the coals of his Big Grill barbecue adventures, or firing up his Baste BBQ rig, Andy Noonan’s oversees the cooking at Fowl Play, in the Square Ball pub, sending out the kind of grub that makes you order dishes you would normally never consider eating. Their chicken burger, for instance, is a modern Dublin classic, made with boned chicken thighs anointed with house rub, grilled over charcoal and served with their trademark Alabama white sauce, frisée and a toasted brioche bun. The best way to describe the flavour is to say that it has that close-to-the-bone resonance: it’s the chicken you greedily tear from the carcass with your fingers. And Mr Noonan gets that flavour with everything: cherry-wood smoked chicken wings; rotisserie chicken; turkey dog; smoked duck; grilled halloumi. Great drinks, great pub.
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