Forest & Marcy
Forest & Marcy’s Ciaran Sweeney is one of the great modern Irish chefs.The power of his cooking arises from both the totality of his technique, and from the terroir of his culinary template, his home county of Donegal. Owners John and Sandy Dyer describe F&M as a “wine room and kitchen”, but truthfully it would be more accurate to describe F&M as an atelier with great drinks, for this is where Sweeney polishes and perfects the ideas that have come down from his Donegal background. He puts pine needles with roast scallops, or a Japanese-style cep custard with pumpkin, and these innovations work effortlessly, but it’s with his reworking of Irish staples – fermented potato bread; colcannon with ham hock; beetroot in dough crust; steamed crab with celeriac – that we see a chef who is fearlessly carving out his own unique culinary path.
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