Forest Avenue is an elemental, tactile space, an eating space where everything feels logical and fresh. Textures come from bare wood, leather, ceramics, linen, steel. And both texture and flavour come from chef-patron John Wyer’s rudimental ingredients: black cabbage, celeriac, figs, cheddar custard, piccalilli, heritage carrots, lamb rump. Plates are quickly assembled to express texture – always creamy, crunchy, and chewy – and with an arc of tastes: ash-burnt, pickled-sour, confit-sweet. Where the elements of a dish are unusual – rosehip poached quince; a ginger financier (a light almond cake); whey butter (made from cheese whey) – they are still part of the canon of Forest Avenue tastes that make this food so logical and local. FA is very much at the cutting edge of the contemporary Dublin restaurant scene, and eating here is a formidable experience, one that is both grounded and modern.
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