When we picked a list of ten Irish restaurants that defined the decade just ended, one of the ten was John and Sandy Wyer’s Forest Avenue. The Wyers seemed to us to have created something radical and truly innovative, a restaurant where the immediacy of the cooking was remarkable. In comparison to a restaurant world that is often happy to play standards, John Wyer was improvising on the chords, turning things upside down, jamming on the blue notes, every service a brand new performance. Right from the first taste of malted butter with sourdough through to geranium ice cream, Wyer fuses his sensibility and sincerity in stunningly fine food, leading the diner through an entire universe of tastes – pickled-sour, ash-burnt, confit-sweet – which are entirely his own. Forest Avenue is a restaurant that plays entirely by its own rules.
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