John Wyer knows that it don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing, and his cooking in Forest Avenue really knows how to swing. Take a dish of ‘Sprouting broccoli, truffle potato, hazelnuts and duck ham.’ It reads simple, but on the plate it is an ode to savouryness even though the only savoury element is the duck ham, and you've got about 10 grammes of that. So, what makes for the excitement? The answer is the conjoining of ingredients that are plated at speed by the kitchen, allowing them to integrate with one another as the dish cools and as you eat it, and as that final slick of brown butter brings it all together. ‘Sprouting broccoli, truffle potato, hazelnuts and duck ham’ becomes ‘green-starchy-savoury-crunchy-warm-tactile-sweet’. It’s glorious cooking, from a chef who gets better every year.
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