The Fatted Calf
Feargal O’Donnell and chef Dee Adamson pay tribute their local ingredients in the most delicious way in Athlone’s town-centre Fatted Calf. There is Glasson raw milk in the pannacotta; the baby beets are from Mooncoin; the salted celeriac hails from the brilliant Lough Boora Farm. John Stone short ribs are braised with treacle for 14 hours, whilst Lisduff black pudding comes with confit egg yolk. Formidable, painstaking attention to detail means that even quotidian things – chicken with ham hock; Dublin Bay prawns with miso; affogato – have all been rigorously thought-through and rebirthed in a fresh, enigmatic, native style. Street renovation works outside the restaurant have finally been finished, making the entire area much more amenable, and The Fatted Calf is the star in the centre of Athlone.
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