“On certain days, I have no problem declaring it my favourite restaurant in the world”, wrote restaurant critic Joe McNamee, in The Examiner.
Many people would agree with him. There is something so primal about Rebecca Harte’s restaurant, something so natural, that Farmgate Café is one of those magical places. Nowhere else feels like Farmgate, or looks like it.
And if it looks simple, don’t be fooled; Ms Harte and her Mum, Kay, have an innate good taste gifted to few people, and they decorate and style the Farmgate in a truly individualistic way: you have to know what you are doing, and to have sure confidence, to make a room like this, and to have been able to let a room mature so stylishly over the café’s 25-year history.The cooking is as confident as the style, and seems as simple, before delivering lavishly delicious surprises thanks to its pin-point accuracy: tripe and onions with drisheen; Irish lamb stew; Durcan’s lamb shank braised in red wine and herbs; Ballinrostig smoked cheese, leek and onion tart. This cooking is ageless, deeply cultured, and logical. And also primal, and proud, and pure Cork.
More from the wonderful County Cork
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