Eithna's By The Sea
Eithna O’Sullivan is one of the great Irish food pioneers.
Long before it was fashionable, Eithna was championing the fish and shellfish culled from the coastal waters near to her base at Mullaghmore. Long before it was fashionable, Eithna was pioneering the use of seaweeds in her cookery. And, all the while, she was championing Sliogo as a serious food destination, with its own distinctive cuisine.
She makes a pesto with wild garlic and dilisk and serves it with her brown bread, and that dilisk can reappear in a meringue, wisely paired with chocolate. Her cookery treats simple fish such as mackerel with the same respect as top-order seafood such as Dover sole or lobster. The Irish Examiner summarised Eithna’s achievement by suggesting that her work echoed “Myrtle Allen’s credo of excellent local seasonal produce cooked simply and well but with contemporary touches…” Just so.
Ms O'Sullivan is one of the great Irish culinary torch bearers, a chef always ahead of her time.
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More along the Sligo coast
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