Alex Green’s cooking in Michael Deane’s flagship restaurant has continued some of the culinary tropes that Mr Deane and chef Danni Barry instituted – the breads and Abernethy butter; roasted bone sauce for fish; kohlrabi purée as a background – whilst steadily introducing his own style, which features an impressive purity of purpose when it comes to plating up some great cooking. His dish of crystal tomato water with basil oil and lobster is pretty perfect, whilst halibut with that kohlrabi is as clean and fine as fish cookery gets, and he takes the signature bread and butter into the stratosphere with brown butter and browned butter crumbs. Michael Deane has always hot-housed great Northern cooking talent, and Mr Green is the latest star to use a MD room as a showboat for some thrilling, pure food.
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