If they were footballers, then Graham Neville and Olivier Meissonave would be the star picks for big-money teams like Man City or PSG, and the media would refer to them as the Dream Team Duo. And that’s just what they are: Mr Neville is as good as cook as there is in Dublin, and Mr Meissonave is as good a front-of-house as there is in the capital. Together, they are squeezing out high-octane sparks: lamb tartare with mushroom broth; courgette flower stuffed with prawns; turbot with lobster and Madeira sauce; Grand Marnier soufflé. It’s grand, ambitious, luxurious cooking, and Mr Neville never drops the ball. The bill will be steep, of course, but Dax is a singular, special event destination, though the pre-theatre menus do offer fine value for money.
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