Almost two years after chef Graham Neville arrived to work alongside owner Olivier Meissonave, and Dax restaurant purrs with the professional elan of a big cat: confident; charming; discreet; kind of perfect. Working together has brought the best out of this pair, who complement each others skills seamlessly. Meissonave’s mastery of the room, the service and the wine selection is matched by Neville’s peerless cooking – this chef is one of the great talents – so settle in to this comfortable basement, don’t worry about the bill, and enjoy some of the best food in Dublin: lobster and prawn ravioli with thermidor sauce; pigeon with sweetbreads and tarragon; turbot with pumpkin and sherry; bitter chocolate tart with poached clementines. Yes, it’s an expensive experience, but cooking of such originality means it’s worth every cent.
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