Dan O’Brien is one of the best of the younger generation of Irish chefs. He is also one of the best fiddle players of his generation, and it’s not fanciful to say that his subtle and poetic cooking is almost musical in structure. He understands tension and release, rhythm and counterpoint, so you might start with some sweet Dublin Bay Prawns with Acquarello risotto, before the robust middle passage of slow-cooked pork neck with parsnips and Café de Paris butter, and then the crescendo of salted caramel mousse with caramel ice cream brings down the curtain with dramatic splendour. Growing much of his own produce in a polytunnel helps his quest to find the essence of flavour in everything he cooks. Emily O’Brien runs the room as to the manner born, and Daroka is one of the stars of County Kerry.
More along the Kerry coast
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