Da Mirco Osteria
Da Mirco is not an Italian restaurant.
Instead, it is a Northern Italian osteria, serving Northern Italian cooking, specifically the dishes and the wines of Valtellina, in Lombardy. “Gastronomically speaking, I am convinced that Lombardy is the most interesting region of Italy”, writes Anna Del Conte in her book, “The Classic Food of Northern Italy.”
That is fighting talk for Italians, all of whom believe the food of their region to be the best there is. But whether you agree with Ms Del Conte or not, the cooking in Mirco Fondrini’s osteria will convince you of the greatness of the food of Valtellina and Lombardy.
As long ago as the time of Leonardo Da Vinci, the valley of Valtellina was celebrated for the excellence of its osterias. This is the land of bresaola, of pasta made with buckwheat flour, of smoked salamis and excellent butter, of proper mascarpone and polenta, of fragrant parsley, and good cabbages and potatoes.
If that sounds a little bit similar to Ireland, well maybe that is why the young M. Fondrini came to Cork and stayed here. He has brought the classic Valtellina dishes with him: mountain lasagna made with buckwheat flour, potatoes, cabbages and Bitto cheese; brasato al nebbiolo; gnocchi Valtellinese; polpette al sugo; polenta with casera cheese and funghi.
This is rambunctious cooking, mountain and Alpine valley food, and it is stonkingly delicious. Our advice is to take advice from M. Fondrini, and let him guide you through the food and the wines. That way, you will feel transported to the shores of Lake Como and the peak of Stelvio. Da Mirco, on Bridge Street, is the bridge to a delicious Northern Italian eating adventure.
More from the wonderful County Cork
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