Richard Whitty is an atypical Irish pizzaiolo. Where most Irish pizza houses quickly dumb down with compromises, driven by Irish tastes for pizzas with multiple ingredients, Mr Whitty is a purist, as dedicated a creator of Neapolitan pizza as anyone who was ever born in Naples.
All the great classics are here – the Margherita; the 4 Cheeses; the Pepperoni; The Picante – though he does allow himself the occasional flourish, in creations such as the Butcher’s Block, and an intriguing riff with aubergine parmigiana, with pine nuts and garlic oil. The base is a flawlessly executed Neapolitan pie, an aureole of dough around judiciously placed flavour points.
But, for the most part, Crust serves the pizza bible, as it has been written in holy culinary scripture, and does so with surpassing skill, helped by the use of the very finest Italian and Irish ingredients.
The good people of Wexford can’t get enough of the Crust crust, with its chewy and charred deliciousness, and the restaurant signed off 2020 by actually running out of pizza dough. Ring out the old, ring in the new, but either way you have to do it with Crust pizza.
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