Richard Whitty has taken the gospel of Neapolitan pizza and has brought it, across the continent, back to Wexford, a modern Irish pizza apostle. Neapolitan pizza is the original style of pizza, the tabula rasa, using only type 0 or 00 flour, and topped with simple ingredients, which allows the pizzaiola to achieve a crust which is chewy, charred and elastic. Neapolitan pizza is – in pizza terms – the way, the truth, and the light, and whilst Mr Whitty can incline towards heresy – he adds Richie Doyle’s local sausage meat, and yes there is pineapple, albeit fresh pineapple, paired with Alsace smoked ham – his pizzas are distinguished by a noble purity – the Margherita; the 4 cheeses; the Parma; the pepperoni. The rest of the Crust menu is as concise as it should be – some sharing platters and pizza focaccia to begin, then gelato and affogato for afters, along with a chocolate pizza with toasted marshmallows for those who want a campfire moment. David O'Reilly runs the room with the understated confident professionalism and assurance that Mr Whitty brings to his pizza peel and his big Gozney pizza oven, the local Wexford craft beers are just excellent, and Crust gives us a taste of the true Italian sublime. Cocktails before at Kelly’s on the Corner, of course.
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