Piero Melis opened The Courthouse, in quaint and quiet Kinlough village, in 1996, and for more than two decades now he has practised what he learnt from Richard Corrigan, when Mr Melis worked at Bentley's in London as manager of the oyster bar: make it stylish, and keep it simple. There is no arrogance about his cooking, which is beautifully logical, and which somehow manages to take Irish ingredients a sprinkle some Sardinian magic on them: pecorino cheese tartlet; sea urchins with garlic, chilli and Sardinian olive oil; smoked tuna carpaccio with lemon oil; penne with smoked salmon and vodka; seafood and chicken paella. Don’t miss the beautiful Sardinian wines which Mr Melis imports. Value for money is exceptional, so you can afford to book one of the simple rooms upstairs and make a night of it.
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