Everyone loves Piero Melis’s little Sardinian-accented restaurant, sited in the old courthouse building in little Kinlough. There is such a quiet, elemental and understated charm to the room, the service and the setting that the team have you right from the outset, so just kick back, sit down in front of the warm fire, order up, and let the night roll in a procession of delicious cooking: the classic aubergine parmigiana; risotto of chorizo and scallops; pitch-perfect spinach and ricotta ravioli; the crab linguini with bottarga; Thornhill duck with wild mushrooms. Value for money is excellent, so spend what you have just saved on the Sardinian wines Mr Melis imports himself – they are rare and special bottles – and make a night of it in the simple rooms upstairs, then enjoy one of Mr Melis’s breakfasts before hitting the surf in Bundoran.
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