Grainne O’Keeffe is a protean cook. Her menus in the artsy little space of Clanbrassil House, in the fast-developing eating intersection of Leonard’s Corner in Dublin 8, range far and wide across the culinary world, yet every dish proves a simple truth: this chef can cook anything. The menu divides into small bites, plates; grill dishes; sides; and desserts, and the confidence shown right across the board, from onglet steak with chimichurri to Brussel sprouts with kimchi butter, is authoritative. It’s delightful, also, that everyday things are given a funky riff: mayo with pickled onions; bonito rice vinegar with oysters; broccoli with miso butter. Excellent staff are right in tune with the chef’s ambitions, and value for money for such defining modern Irish cooking is exceptional.
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