Grainne O’Keeffe has had a rockin’ two years since Clanbrassil House got the doors open. Today, she is an almost ubiquitous presence in the media, both national and international, she hauls in awards as regularly as she makes sausages out of pig cheeks, and she has come to personify the confidence and chutzpah of modern Dublin cookery. This is a good thing: Ms O’Keeffe cooks unfussy and delicious food, and a good team serve it with good wines and smiles in a simple little pocket of a room. She knows what she is good at: getting us all to behave like Bisto kids as we get the scent of fat and beef on a fire grill, the meat paired with classic sauces, and punchy starches such as hash brown chips and beef dripping dauphinoise potatoes. And then you have apple pie with brown butter caramel, because no one ever says they have had enough butter.
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