Ross Lewis’ ability to reconcile opposites is the factor that has created Chapter One’s pole position status amongst Irish restaurants. It’s a basement restaurant that doesn’t feel like a basement. It’s a grand experience, but the staff make it feel homely. The cooking is avant garde, but it’s made with simple artisan ingredients. It’s expensive, yet the pre-theatre menus offer astonishing value. The biggest influences on Chapter One food are Ferran Adria, and Myrtle Allen. It’s Dublin’s premier eating destination, yet Mr Lewis is a Cork man. Settling these tensions, and making harmony out of potential dissonance, is Ross Lewis’s genius. In their marvelous book, Chapter One An Irish Food Story, Lewis wrote that he hopes his cooking “will always reflect honesty and integrity”. It does just that, and much, much more.
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