James Sheridan’s grub is right up for it. You come to Celbridge to eat gutsy, pugnacious, vivid cooking, from a chef who loves to mix crispy pig’s head with smoked eel, or beef tartare with ox tongue, or lamb belly with liver. If this all sounds like macho, masculine eating, the truth is actually that Canteen cooking is actually super refined and subtle, thanks to the fact that Mr Sheridan has oodles of technique under his fingers, and that his short menus give him time to transform his ingredients with slow, patient alchemy. It makes for classic, modern Irish cooking, enjoyed in a smart, bright and welcoming room which features excellent wines, whilst Soizic Humbert makes sure every guest is well looked after.
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