For the cutting edge cooks of the younger generation, heaven lies in the 3x3x3: three starters; three main courses; three puddings. That’s the way James Sheridan rolls with his menus in the sweet and lovely Canteen Celbridge, a pretty room tucked down a laneway just off the main strip of the town. The short menus allow the kitchen plenty of time to attend to that pig’s head, and to salt bake the celeriac, and to braise the beef cheek and make the salted caramel tart. There is also time to make the house sourdough, and to bake the crackers for the cheese course. It’s a smart way to work, because it allows significant talents like Mr Sheridan to shine with every dish, and this guy is an outstanding cook. Soizic Humbert runs the room with quiet command, and together they are a mighty duo.
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