Tom and Fiona’s Italian eatery is a tabernacle of good things. Firstly, it’s wonderfully atmospheric, the rooms higgledy-piggledy arranged around the slope of the street, and the walls-and-beams style makes it feel like you have walked in off the street into a little trattoria somewhere in Liguria. Secondly, they know how to put that brick oven to the best use, from the fine breads to the crisp-based pizza. But their particular speciality, aside from superb pizzas and pastas, is the ingenious use of local artisan ingredients in a host of gleefully creative dishes – bruschetta with Baltimore black bacon and aioli; Hederman’s smoked mackerel pizza with beetroot and horseradish cream; salad of Skeaghanore duck with pomegranates; Ballyhoura mountain mushroom risotto. This is vivid, smart Cork cooking, and when you ally the charm of the room, the creativity of the cooking and the smashing wines that Tom and Fiona import from Italy, it all adds up to a whizz-bang! Kinsale champion.
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