The fact that an open fire burns in the hearth of The Grocery, the original bar of Gay Browne’s Tuam pub, tells you just what you need to know about Stevie and Amanda’s brilliant venture. This pair are not just keeping the culinary fires burning: they have re-ignited the culinary fires in a town that time had forgotten and, in addition to their superb cooking, their curation of the Blas@ Brownes food festival and at the local farmer’s market are the feathers in the cap of this activist couple. But, without great grub, it would be meaningless, and great grub there is, served in the open-plan back room: Friendly Farmer chicken with butter beans; cod with black quinoa; salted caramel baked Alaska. Make sure to start with a glass of Black Donkey and Castlemine pork scratchings in the bar before dinner.
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