Amanda Fahy and Stevie Lane have transformed the old pub and grocery known as Browne’s – the very pub where the couple first met – into one of the hottest places to eat in the West. Mr Lane put in his time in top-notch Dublin restaurants before returning to Tuam, and the confident clarity of his cooking has real big city polish: you might be in an ancient bar with a blazing turf fire in a provincial town, but this is some slick food being put on the plate. Mr Lane sources from the best, then plates his creations elegantly – cod with samphire and almonds; Andarl Farm pork belly with hazelnuts and celeriac; beef cheek with carrot and kale. Great bar snacks accompany great drinks, and they even organised their own Tuam Food Festival.
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