Certain events signal a new epoch in Irish food: the opening of Ballymaloe House; the creation of Milleens Cheese; the first Eurotoques dinner in Trinity College; Galway’s Food On The Edge. Into this exalted list comes Evan Doyle's audacious Zero Km; 1 dinner; 1 night; 100 people, at the Brook Lodge Inn, a culinary extravaganza where each element of the fifteen courses was culled from within 1km of Macreddin village. Mr Doyle and his team spent 20 months growing and preparing the feast: they grew the wheat for the bread; the grapes for the wine; they foraged ingredients; they farmed others; they reared the animals. And it was all good, every element of the 15 courses, with no tokenism, and it showed exactly what self-sufficiency can achieve. Mr Doyle should be running the Department of Agriculture. Fat chance of that happening.
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