Evan Doyle and his team don’t get enough respect for the fact that they run the only organically certified hotel in Ireland, and have managed to maintain that exalted status for two decades. Others might aspire to organic status, but it’s only The Strawberry Tree that has gotten there, and has stayed there. The team are master foragers, smokers, fermenters and growers, and the flavours you enjoy here at dinner are frequently starling in their elemental complexity and richness: cod with wild sea broth; mallard with bone gravy; sole with fermented whey; sika deer with fraughans. Combine this away-from-it-all cooking with the away-from-it-all atmosphere of the hotel, and it’s some sort of dream experience in the beautiful wilds of deepest Wicklow.
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