Dining in Blairs Cove is one of the great adventures in Irish food.
But, before you get to the dining room and to your table, take a moment to savour the views down Dunmanus Bay from the house, views so stunning that you will always recall the first time you arrived here. The dining room itself is nothing less than the Chartres Cathedral of Irish dining: high, wide and handsome, lit by natural light, candlelight and the warm blaze of a roaring fire. The central hors d’oeuvre table and the grand piano are respectively laden with the commencement, and the conclusion of your dinner and the impact when you first see this sumptuousness is immense: the room seems to telescope the last five hundred years of history, architecture and culinary arts into the most enticing place to eat in West Cork.
The cooking is simple, and simple excellence. It is precise, delicious and appropriate at every turn. Simply deciding what to choose from the panoply of starters is dillemma personified, and thereafter the judgement of the kitchen never falters: Skeaghanore duck with celeriac purée; lamb sweetbreads with brown butter; grilled lamb with white bean purée; miso marinated cod with red chard.
Ann and Chris have brought dynamic energy and ambition to the job of succeeding Ann’s parents in running Blairs Cove, and they artfully continue the tradition of delivering one of the great Irish hospitality experiences. Travellers should note also that the rooms are excellent, and breakfast is – of course – a bounteous treat.
More along the Cork coast
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