Three years on from their gee whizz! opening, and chef-patron Barry Fitzgerald’s funky, minimalist room has calmly ridden the wave of acclaim, spawned an excellent sister restaurant, Clanbrassil House, and inspired a new wave of new food addresses to open up in the South Circular Road – Clanbrassil Street zone. Mr Fitzgerald hasn’t had to alter the formula of his concise 3 x 3 x 3 menus, though weekend dinners only offer a chef’s menu with choices restricted to two main courses and pudding or cheese. The cooking is cut-above and classy – nuanced, slick, modern, never trying too hard – with the dishes solidly united by culinary logic: the signature dilisk crackers with smoked oysters (Bastible loves smoked foods); hake with roasted celeriac; beef flank with grilled Caesar. Great wines, and value is very keen.
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