Paolo Sabatini knows both the Italian art of cooking, and the Italian art of eating. He knows that to cook well, you must first source your foods with precise care, so his menus celebrate the West Coast champions. And with these peerless foods at his fingertips, he then weaves that culinary magic that ushers in the ‘gift of making art out of life’, as Marcella and Victor Hazan describe this marvellous alchemy.
Mr Sabatini’s skills are best shown in dishes like ‘culurglones’ alla Cagliaritana, where he fills ravioli with potato, onion and Pecorino cheese and tops it with a rabbit ragu. As a statement of cucina povera it is hard to beat – simple, earthy and gutsy ingredients ennobled by gracious, patient cooking. But then he will blindside you with a simple panciotti with lemon and herbs that is so ethereal that you seem to have passed from Calabria and gone straight through to Rome.
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