Chicken liver pate. Fish mousse with lobster butter sauce. Roast beef with red wine sauce. Pear pithivier with vanilla ice cream. Where are we? Langan’s restaurant in 1973? A Cordon Bleu class in 1969? No, it’s dinner in Ballymaloe House, summer 2017, and the kitchen is showing why these dishes became classics, and why they deserve to be cooked, decade after decade. Properly prepared, these are creations you can’t ever tire of. When a pate is so well made, when a mousse is so light, and its sauce so flavourful, then to hell with the age of the dish. What matters is its utter deliciousness, and the seriousness of purpose which the kitchen brings to its task. The Ballymaloe kitchen is dedicated and their execution of culinary classics is flawless. In a food world obsessed with fashion, it’s nice to be reminded that the old timers knew what they were at.
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