2018 was the year when Ken and Gwen’s cubby-hole of a restaurant ascended to Premier League status, the year when it became common to hear the cooking of this irrepressible duo compared to the work of the finest chefs in Ireland. Because everyone has finally gotten over the unlikely setting of their Kevin Street base – this broom cupboard is a restaurant? Really? – we can now focus firmly on the food, and that food is powerful, unique and creative. It takes the queer gear to really get this pair going – lamb ribs; monkfish cheeks; brawn fritters; dandelions – but once they get into overdrive the cooking is psychedelic and unfettered, and there are few other chefs who can match their raw talent, their inventiveness. No other chefs in Ireland push the culinary envelope as much as Ken and Gwen.
Photos 1 and 2, credit Bryan Meade
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