‘Have you tried our famous tripe?’ Isn’t that pretty much the best culinary chat-up line you have ever heard? It’s the tag-line on the t-shirts worn by Ken and Gwen, chef and owners of Assassination Custard, Dublin’s most left-field, unconventional and iconoclastic restaurant. This pair go their own way, cooking the foods they love, and serving them in a sardine can which masquerades as a restaurant. Who cares if you have to stand against the wall, so long as they are cooking the goat’s kidneys, and the ox heart, and the famous tripe sandwiches, and the n’duja rolls. The room may be tiny, and the menu decidedly weird, but Ken and Gwen are major players, the sort of cooks who change people’s expectations of what it is wise to eat.
Photos 1 and 2, credit Bryan Meade
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