“Have you tried our famous tripe?” has to be the best culinary chat-up line in the history of restaurants. It’s provocative, ridiculous, Dadaist, and funny, all in one go. As such, it’s typical of Ken and Gwen, the couple who run Ireland’s most unlikely restaurant. It might be unlikely – a wee room on Kevin Street with 8 seats that looks like a Rathmines student bedsit circa 1979 – but as the food writer Ali Dunworth points out, AC “is one of the most unique eating experiences in Dublin” What had Ali eaten? Cabbage. That’s what Ken and Gwen do. Don’t worry if you don’t actually know what you are eating – borlengo with lardo, anyone? borlotti with cicoria? – the AC secret is to order everything on the day’s menu – written on a paper bag – and discover that it will all be good. More than good.
Photos 1 and 2, credit Bryan Meade
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