Jp McMahon’s cooking of west coast ingredients in the little room of Aniar acts as an aleph of the entire region. You see the place – the west of Ireland – through the magic of this cooking, its scents, textures, culture, history, its potential. It’s fitting, too, that Mr McMahon has such a fondness for using an ingredient or utensil to act as a nest for another ingredient, whether it’s a tiny spoon hand-carved in County Mayo, or a piece of soused herring on a crisped leek skin, or hen’s egg filled with a pillow of potato foam with duck confit at the bottom, whilst a single slice of pickled onion is the nest for Mossfield organic yogurt. McMahon is cradling his ingredients right to the end, and plate after plate is a visual, tactile and sensual delight. Great wine pairings should not be missed.
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More along the Galway coast
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