Jp McMahon is a true omnivore: everywhere he looks, he sees something to eat. If you want a man to re-direct the world’s eating habits away from industrial-scale meat, and towards a naturally healthy way of using the earth’s resources, then here he is. A typical Aniar tasting menu of 16 dishes will feature: arrow grass; beetroot; dilisk; elderberry; elderflower; kelp; meadowsweet; nasturtium; rosehip; sea beet; sea buckthorn; and sorrel. McMahon is outstanding in his field, his hedgerow, and his shoreline, and he hauls in all these wild, radical riches and transforms them into things of intense beauty. He is unusual, also, in running two other Galway restaurants – Cava Bodega and Tartare – which are every bit as distinguished as Aniar. The wine pairing in Aniar is also not to be missed: the magic of these culinary marriages is outstanding.
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