Karan Mittal is yet another of those dazzlingly gifted head chefs whose cooking seems to have internalised an entire culinary culture, despite the chef’s years. 25-year old Mr Mittal has already spent kitchen time in New York – working in Aroga and Indian Accent – as well as Delhi, and his cooking maintains the formidably creative standard of Ananda’s cuisine, whilst offering a very contemporary and personal perspective. The sheer complexity and number of ingredients Mr Mittal can use in a single dish is often mind-boggling – hand-pounded lamb kebab with fig and confit lamb leg samosa served with passion fruit, plum ketchup and medjool date is a typical, labyrinthine starter – but the chef brings it all home with virtuosic panache. This is really exciting cooking from a significant talent, and not to be missed.
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