Conor Dempsey is one of the best chefs in Ireland. His cooking style is utterly personal, and utterly distinctive: no one else combines the flavours of east and West like this guy. His restaurant, Amuse, is a charming room, attended by staff of the highest standards of professionalism. The critics love him to bits: you will hear nothing but gushing praise from the scribblers for the way this man cooks. And yet, like other great modern chefs, such as Graham Neville of Dax, or Richard Milnes of Dillon's, he remains a cult figure, when he deserves to be a national figure. It’s just not fair and, if you get to enjoy his cooking, and the brilliant way in which has has built a cuisine where Miyazaki-meets-Chapter One, you will say it is, in fact, bloody unfair.
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