Airfield is the most charming oasis in Dublin and, with chefs Luke Matthews and pastry chef Shane Smith firing out top-class cookery in Overends Kitchen, stealing away to Dundrum to exult in this beautiful get-away, even if only for an hour or so, is the best antidote to the craziness of contemporary Dublin. The cooking resonates with the purity and excellence of the produce that Mr Matthews has to hand from this working farm, and even the simplest things – a bowl of Airfield estate lamb stew; miso aubergines; charred leeks with Young Buck cheese; Dunany grain and artichoke gruel – are plosive with deep, deep flavours. With a slice of Mr Smith’s rhubarb and white chocolate galette, and truly charming and engaged service from a great team, Airfield and Overends are SoCoDo stars.
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