Colin Hession, Michael Fogarty and Seaneen Sullivan are trail blazers and risk takers.
Over the past three years they have taken two defeated Dublin pubs and built two destinations which showcase and support the best of Irish food and drink.
They took a risk when they opened L. Mulligan Grocer, in 2010. To some people Stoneybatter wasn’t an obvious foodie neighbourhood, struggling pubs were calling last orders all over the country, and they didn’t even sell Guinness!
However business has thrived and, riding high on the crest of the craft brewing wave which is sweeping Ireland, the enterprising trio have opened a second pub and restaurant on Dublin’s Dorset Street named W.J. Kavanagh’s.
Both food and drink play an equal role in Kavanagh’s. Ingredients are carefully sourced with over fifteen small small Irish producers represented on the short menu. I can recommend the organic black pudding wontons or the County Down crab with dulse bread as good choices to start. Smart selections for mains include TJ Crowe’s bangers and mash, buttermilk lemon fried free range chicken with mac and cheese (using Glebe Brethan cheese) but for me the fish & chips of caper crumbed ling, twice cooked chips and wasabi mushy peas was the standout dish.
Desserts including Eton Mess made with Cooley poitín soaked strawberries and Tyrconnell whiskey cream and a chewy brown butter rice crispie square wrap up an imaginative menu.
Eight Degrees Brewing in North Cork give away T-shirts which urge people not to drink beer from strangers but to support their local brewery instead. I have never met Colin, Michael and Seaneen but I have followed their progress over the last few years and I feel like I know them personally. They have shared their story and their journey with the public through social media and a beautifully written blog.
W. J. Kavanagh’s, 4-5 Dorset Street, Dublin 1, Phone 01 873 0990, @WJKavanaghs
Email: hello@wjkavanaghs.com, Web www.wjkavanaghs.com
