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Who says the don’t make divas like they used to? Shannen Keane’s Diva restaurant is divaness personified.

All the best places to eat, shop and stay in Ireland. A local guide to local places.

Shannen Keane’s Diva is, indeed, a diva. It’s a star performer, a top-of-the-bill act, the headliner, the name above the title.
And that means that Ms Keane is the Culinary Callas, a stylish performer with a culinary voice that is uniquely hers. She can go, effortlessly, from the High C of a chicken lahksa, all chill and coriander notes, to the deep bass of a soulful bowl of beef and barley soup, and everything is comfortably within her range.
As a cook, she exhibits perfect pitch. And yet, her signature as a cook is the surprising presence of off notes: she uses sourness in a way no Irish chef would ever dare, so there is a sour pickle balancing a superb roast pork sandwich. There is the sprightly sourness of fish sauce in that chicken laksa. Her instinct for balance, achieved using sharp and sour notes, is explained by her expertise as a mixologist, so whatever she cooks is a demonstration of balancing sweet, sour, bitter, salty and umami.
The result is food that pings right onto the centre of your appetite, food which satisfies more than your hunger. You leave Diva feeling on top of the world, feeling like you have just witnessed a class, top-of-the-bill performance, like you have just seen a star in action.

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