Toddy’s at the Bullman, Kinsale

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Toddy’s Bar belongs in a league of vintage Irish pubs that do it right.

Whilst retaining a dated charm, they are effortlessly chic. In the winter months, the place would be a cozy escape but, ever since the country has been given the recent gift of 'California Weather'; enjoying a lazy Saturday lunch was the height of bliss. In my mind I would say to myself '...long and leisurely, that's how it should be.'

As for the food, it's down to earth cooking with touches of traditional Irish cooking as well as being expansively Mediterranean.

James, a good friend of mine, happily tucked into a small bowl of warm chowder. I had gnocchi with asparagus; which was based on a gorgonzola cream. Stonewell Cider was the perfect chilled drink with the dishes. Whilst having samples of each others dishes, I agreed that even though cream played a major role in both the dishes, it did not swamp or kill any flavour. Pudding was a priority: James had sticky toffee pudding which was classic and rendered just right. Creme brûlée seemed the right choice for me, and boy it was. Both the puddings were beautifully decorated and dynamic in showing how different ingredients such as strawberries, sprinkled icing sugar, and so on all sat so nicely with them.

Espresso came last. Mahers Coffee, roasted in Cork city. Perfect. Just that little hit within the lunch that ends on your favourite musical note.

The room is filled with old photographs of local people going back generations. Modern music can be heard. Overall, it is the ideal thing which it is utterly essential to learn: one has right to eat a long, lazy and leisurely lunch on a sunny day.

There, summed up in alliteration. Stand up for your lunch rights. Just pretend you're in a Renoir painting and savour the beauty that Toddy’s has to offer.

http://www.thebulman.ie

Connie McKenna