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Assassination Custard, Dublin

All the best places to eat, shop and stay in Ireland. A local guide to local places.

Here is Monday’s menu:
ful; cicoria, anchovy & lemon; kohlrabi tonnato; nduja rolls with ricotta; red endive, guanciale and ricotta salata; panelle; lamb heart and curry leaf yogurt.
So, where are we? In Relae, Copenhagen? In Aska, New York? In The Dairy, in London’s Clapham? In Bar Tartine, San Francisco?
Nope. We are in Dublin. We are on Kevin Street. We are in a room with two tables, which is squeezed under a block of Corporation flats. We are in Assassination Custard, a thoroughly unlikely name for a thoroughly unlikely restaurant in a thoroughly unlikely place.
We order everything, from the ful madames beans to the lamb heart curry. Everything is stunningly good. Ken Doherty and Gwen McGrath do the cooking, and everything else. We are ready and willing to declare that Mr Doherty and Ms McGrath are geniuses, for how else can you navigate from a chickpea fritter – the panelle – to a dressing of lemon and anchovy on the chicory leaves which is so damned good we can scarcely believe it. Only geniuses can do that. AC is Dublin’s biggest surprise of 2016, no contest.

19 Kevin Street Upper, Dublin Facebook

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