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Recession? What recession?!

All the best places to eat, shop and stay in Ireland. A local guide to local places.
  • The Winding Stair

Being a Bridgestone editor is a bit like playing in a Miles Davis quintet: no rehearsals, plucked from the bench, get out there and be confident right from the start, here we go right now...
Anyhow, that's how Caroline Byrne of the Bridgestone Dublin parish got her start, filing expert reports straight away after an innocent e-mail enquiry, being despatched all around the city to say who and what is Bridgestone quality, and so it was nice to finally meet her in person in The Winding Stair this week.
And what a place to meet! TWS was jumpin': hasn't anyone told this packed, noisy, tumultuous restaurant that there is a recession going on? There was a party going on, is what is happening at the TWS. As Ms Byrne wisely identified it: when the Irish do what they know how to do and do it well, they are the best. So it is with TWS: the best.
Burren Smokery and Woodcock Smokehouse smoked fish plate with dilisk bread was excellent, as was organic beetroot with toasted walnuts and Ryefield goat's cheese. Mains of Clare Island organic salmon, and a sublime dish of Sally Barnes's smoked pollock, poached in milk, with a white cheddar mash were two masterly examples of native fish cookery. The cheeeboard offered 4 Irish cheeses, and Clew Bay carrageen pudding with rhubarb compote was a dream with some late picked dessert wine.
This is Irish cooking for the 21st century, served by staff who are so hip they should each have their own television shows. A genuinely awesome eating and drinking experience: don't miss TWS.

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