Dan O’Brien’s cooking has brought Vaughan Lodge into the culinary stratosphere.
Remember the name: Dan O’Brien. Over the next few years, Mr O’Brien will be recognised as one of the best chefs on the west coast, thanks to his powerful and disciplined cooking in Michael and Maria Vaughan’s superb Vaughan Lodge. After we had started with brandade in a shellfish bisque, and polenta with Kerry potatoes and olives and tomatoes and ossobuco with broad bean, celery and semi-dried tomato, we quickly jotted down “100 Best restaurants food”. We followed with a superb dish of scallops with discs of cauliflower; breast of chicken with sweetcorn and baby gem lettuce; and duck with parsnips and golden beetroot. The cooking was perfect, the ingredients were unsurpassable in their quality. We hardly needed desserts, but wild plums with a vanilla cream were the taste of nature itself. Sublime, and remember that name: Dan O’Brien.