Eating Robbie Krawczyk’s cooking can transport you from the sea shore to the farm field, from the curing room to the meadow, from the smokehouse to the chocolate factory. In Tankardstown what you get from the chef’s 5-course menu is cooking as a 21st-century Grand Tour, taking in all the sights, sounds and smells of multiple destinations and locations, as they appear like a kaleidoscope on the plate in front of you. Mr Krawczyk has always cooked this way, conceiving dishes more as a filmmaker or novelist, than as a chef, though his palette of culinary influences is a up-to-the-minute as you can get, and his touch is light and sure, all the way from hay smoked lamb to a dish of strawberries in a field.
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