Frank and Marian show us all exactly how to run a restaurant with rooms, in the pretty and welcoming Roadford House, in the centre of pretty Doolin. A genuine welcome, some simple, crisp accommodation, and some wowee! cooking from Frank. Put them together, and you have a veritable archetype of the coaching inn, the welcome retreat for the traveller exploring the west coast and the Wild Atlantic Way..
Mr Sheedy knows how to write a menu. There will usually be half a dozen starters, the same number of main courses, and a quarter of his classic desserts, along with a cheese plate. And he knows how to cook that menu. His cooking is direct and elemental, firmly controlled, and unwaveringly precise: his food hits the target, and it really hits the sweet spot. There is an Ottolenghi-style principle of taste at play here, so a dish like St Tola goat’s cheese parfait with brick pastry, fig, beetroot, hazelnuts and a truffle honey dressing is a perfect example of wham-bam! sweetness and textures allayed together to stunning effect. You see it again in chicken 3 ways, which comes with red pepper, spinach and a wild mushroom cream. And Yotam Ottolenghi would just love to be able to cook amazing puddings like lemon meringue sundae, or deconstructed cheesecake. Great value, great service, great place, and your destination in pretty Doolin.
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