Let’s use a comparison to try to describe the sort of food Mark Jennings is cooking in Pilgrim’s, in Little Rosscarbery. If you crossed Cork’s Café Paradiso with Belfast’s OX, then you might be getting close to what Mr Jennings is doing. He is a strident locavore, a forager, a bloke with a vast culinary imagination, an aesthete, and he’s one hell of a cook. Ally this with Sarah Jane Pearce’s meticulously rendered furnishings and decorations in this pretty room, and you have a temple of beauty. So, expect pressed lamb breast with pickled orange, and black sole with anchovy-hazelnut butter. Expect langoustines with potato crisps, and Angus strip loin with bone marrow butter. The desserts are quite unique: buffalo ricotta ice cream; Sticky toffee trifle with compressed apple; Chocolate baked alaska with stout ice cream. Pilgrim’s is worth the pilgrimage.
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