The Parson's Nose
Note the language: Ronan and Jenny Sweeney, and their main man Danny Millar, call The Parson's Nose “a characterful and charming dining pub”.
So: not a gastropub, but a dining pub, and what a fit denomination for this inspiring venture. Our good friend, the food writer Charles Campion, wrote that “The Parson's Nose treads the line between gastropub and restaurant, but what makes it so easy to recommend is Millar's insistence on sticking to local produce and the well-balanced and well-seasoned dishes that the kitchen turns out.”
“Well-balanced and well-seasoned” is just what you need to be when you are bravely bridging the gap between pub and restaurant, but the Parson's Nose got it right from the outset, and one of their secrets is the fact that the ingredients have a ruddiness that says pub – Portavogie haddock; turkey and ham pie; shepherd's pie; slow-cooked haunch of venison – yet the assurance and maturity of the cooking says restaurant, for the sourcing is superlative and presentation and plating is well-nigh immaculate.
So, begin with their amazing Belfast Black Stout wheaten bread, and take it from there: roasted bone marrow with caper and shallot salad; smoked haddock fish cake with creamed leeks; pork belly and pork fillet with celeri remoulade; Dexter beef with Drew's vegetables; sea bass with Strangford prawns tortellini; Armagh apple and forced rhubarb crumble. A characterful and charming dining pub, indeed.
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