Success in the restaurant business is ineffable: you can’t hold in your hands the magic that makes people want to visit, and then return to, a particular place to eat.
Before Ross Lewis and Luciano Tona took over the space they turned into Osteria Lucio, several other operators had come and gone. But Lewis and Tona got it right from the off, and Osteria Lucio has succeeded where others did not succeed.
It’s a place to go back to, time and again, and maybe the secret lies in the name: this is an osteria. Osteria food is comfort, comforting food, and that is what you will find here, where standard ingredients are tweaked reverentially, so we are offered mortadella meatballs, fritto misto of broccolini, olives stuffed with spiced veal and pork, margherita pizza, chicken wings with nduja. None of this is complicated – though stuffing olives is time-consuming – and it’s not meant to be: in Lucio, the familar is reworked, but it’s still familar, so there is fusilli alla Norma, and pork rib Milanese, and even tiramisu.
What Mr Lewis and Mr Tona understand is that success in the restaurant game is all about energy, and what you eat in Osteria Lucio is energised thanks to the creativity and determination of the team. They want to do their best, and they do their best. And that’s why Lucio succeeds, and that’s why you eat so well in this captivating, dynamic room.
More from the wonderful County Dublin
Megabites Blog Sign Up
Sign up for our Megabites Newsletter, a blog which brings you all the latest contemporary news of the best food and food people in Ireland, including all that’s new on the Wild Atlantic Way.