Ollie O’Regan is turning out some of the prettiest plates of food imaginable in The Nephin Restaurant in The Mulranny Park: you feast first with your eyes, then get to work. Just look at this dish of scallops with pork belly and carrot purée, for example. There are three perfectly cooked scallops, topped with sprigs of cress, arranged around a square of pork belly. Above them, three circles of carrot purée have had the edge of the purée dragged down into the centre of the dish, done in the way a painter might drag a line of paint on a canvas to suggest its malleability. A rich and dark jus picassoes around the scallops, and a roasted cherry tomato is a bomb of colour in the centre. This isn’t food: this is art. This is painting with ingredients. It’s so gorgeous. And it’s the kind of thing the Mr O’Regan, chef in the Nephin Restaurant, achieves with every plate – you never ate so well with your eyes as you do at the Nephin.Mr O’Regan has simplified his food, and it has made his cooking better because everything on the plate is there because it has to be there – the smoked celeriac purée with Angus beef; the horseradish with feather blade terrine; the black pudding and sage polenta with Sean Kelly’s lamb; the broad bean hollandaise with monkfish. The room is as beautiful as the food, and value is exceptional.Elsewhere, the hotel is packed with walkers and cyclists marching through the Greenway, and manager Dermot Madigan and his team demonstrate at every juncture that they are masters of their art. The Mulranny is one of the jewels of the West Coast, a jewel for the Greenway, a jewel for the Wild Atlantic Way, a place of true enchantment.