The Moody Boar
Sean Farnan is a most interesting cook, and the attention he deserves is slowly but surely coming both to him and to his restaurant, the Moody Boar, which is situated in the beautiful grounds of the Armagh Palace Demesne. Mr Farnan has an oblique way of looking at food, at design, and at details such as how he writes a menu, so the Moody Boar is different from the standard restaurant – they don't do the obvious things here and, even when they do, they put a Moody Boar spin on them. So, pale smoked haddock will have grapefruit, and sirloin comes with toasted bread and salad, and wild mushrooms are served with granola and Armagh fadge. It's refreshing to find this creativity in a county such as Armagh, where restaurant cooking has tended towards the traditional. But Mr Farnan is very much his own man, and the Moody Boar is very much his world. And one day soon, the rest of the world is going to wake up and discover this quixotic and determined chef.
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