Head chef Rory Carville has really made his mark on this outpost from the team behind Dublin’s celebrated Pearl Brasserie. His singular style has won him acclaim with the critics and a steady following of those in the know when it comes to superlative dining. The ingredients are top drawer, fashioned into delicious expressions of the season by Carville’s elegant yet sensitive hand.
New season asparagus with ‘63°C cooked duck egg,’ air-dried duck, Parmesan and truffle custard and duck croutons, is one example of such flair. And he’s not afraid to deviate from the usual safe bets, boldly offering the likes of hogget (young sheep meat older than lamb), rabbit, and less commonly seen sustainable fish such as brill and hake. His cooking is fresh and beautiful, and always utterly delicious.
Locks is not too far from town for city centre dwellers to make this spot a regular haunt, in fact its pretty setting on the canal is ideal for post-dinner strolling. There is excellent value to be had on the lunch menu and value dinner menu, and service and wine list are also pitch perfect.