The Garden House
When did you last hear of a café at a garden centre that boasts its own signature dishes? Well, if you are a lucky resident of Malahide or of north County Dublin, you will know that the terms “garden centre café” and “signature dishes” can belong only to Bryan and Mandy Maher’s The Garden House. Proudly listed on the menu, the trio of signature dishes – the crab salad, the smoked salmon open sandwich, the Thai fish cakes – could, in fact, be joined by many other of the menu’s breakfast and lunch choices: the Hereford burger with Dijon mustard mayo; the scrambled eggs on sourdough; the rosti topped with bloody Mary salsa; the goat’s cheese dusted with crushed hazelnuts; the French toast with vanilla cream, bacon and maple syrup. This is vivid, engaging, smart food – Eamon Barrett used the term “faultless” to describe the cooking – and Mr Barrett reckoned that the Mahers are “going to set a whole new benchmark” for food served in garden centres. Benchmark food, and signature dishes, in a garden centre: welcome to the new Irish eating.
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