The Fumbally has rewritten the rules on how to run a restaurant. Instead of a streamlined operation with a head chef at the apex, they run the show like a bunch of anarchists who have just walked out of a Comintern meeting. Their Wednesday evening dinners use a rotating gallery of chefs, so not only can you not book a table, you also don’t know who is cooking, or exactly what they will be serving. Might be Mexican, might be Indian, might even be shepherd’s pie. The daily specials that augment the breakfast and lunch menu vary depending on who feels like whizzing up something new. In theory, this anarchic approach shouldn’t work. In practice, it works brilliantly, because there is a crew of real creative talents at work here, and their invention powers this unlikely place.
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