What do queues mean in a restaurant? Pete Wells of the New York Times reckons they have three meanings. They show a place is democratic: everyone waits. They are a signal of freshness: cooking takes time. They are an endorsement: if people are queueing, the wait is worth it.
So, as you wait in the queue at Food Heaven, you will have time to ponder these three truisms. Is Noirin Furey’s café democratic? Indeed it is – table sharing is a must. Is the food fresh? For sure: just smell that brown bread. Is the wait worth it? Are all these people stupid! No sir! Ms Furey and her team do good, straight-ahead, tasty food – goats’ cheese and tomato omelette; quiche lorraine; club tripledecker; chocolate biscuit slice – and everyone knows the wait is worth it.