Peter and Jumoke are sure making waves in Dublin 7. A year after opening the doors of Fish Shop on Queen Street, just adjacent to the River Liffey, the couple moved down the road to open their new fish and chip shop open on Benburb Street. What’s revelatory about Benburb Street is not the brevity of the menu – a trio of fish offers is their trademark – but the capaciousness of the wine list, shared with Queen Street, and packed with crackers like Txakoli, Clairette and Aligote, and with a range of sherries, skin contact whites and pudding wines, and available by the glass. That’s the sort of left-field thinking that has made the Fish Shop such a radical departure for Dublin: but, sure, didn’t Dubs always drink Gevrey-Chambertin with their One’n’One?
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