A fire which gutted the tiny interior of the restaurant in late-2016 scarcely dented the formidable momentum of Conrad Howard’s flagship Cork city brew and smokehouse. Elbow Lane is the room that everyone wants to be in, so you need to arrive early as they don’t take bookings. And when you do get seated in this little L-shaped room, start with one of their quintet of nano-brews, and match them with some artfully confected cooking: smoked pork cheek with pork broth; scallop roe tater tots; beef tongue with smoked hollandaise; T-bone with smoked cascade butter; pork neck with watercress potato salad; chocolate mousse with burnt marshmallows and bitter chocolate. This is take-no-prisoners cooking, wild and punchy with smoky, deep flavours, and the people of Cork have taken to it as to the manner born.
More from the wonderful County Cork
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